Blockbuster Weekend

I live for weekend getaways especially during the summer. Escaping Manhattan’s sweltering heat and baking streets is a preoccupation I share with other New Yorkers. There are so many places within a few hours drive from the city that you can escape to. Staying put is almost inexcusable. 

On a recent holiday weekend my boyfriend and I decided to go to Block Island off the coast of Rhode Island. Friends who had been there several times this summer were going again and suggested we join them.

The island was named after Adriaen Block, a Dutch explorer famous for establishing early trade with the native Algonquians and for his expeditions in the North East following Henry Hudson. Block Island is about eight and a half miles long and about three and a half miles wide with a terrain full of sandy beaches and rocky cliffs that dot the shoreline. There only two ways you can arrive on the island, either by ferry from Judith Point, Rhode Island or by chartering a small airplane, which only takes approximately twelve minutes from the airport in Westerly, also in Rhode Island.

Most hotels are within walking distance from the Old Harbor Ferry dock and on weekends you’ll find a lot of day-trippers coming in just to enjoy the beaches. You can also rent bikes or mopeds during your stay. Take note that a lot of the dirt roads are off limits to mopeds so a bike with a basket is what you should take if you don’t mind getting a little physical.

We stayed at the Atlantic Inn, a former boarding house built in 1879 converted into a quaint Victorian style bed and breakfast with a wraparound veranda offering spectacular views of Ocean Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. None of the rooms have radios or televisions, which I appreciated because it really forces you to get away from reality. I never watch TV when I’m on vacation anyway. We enjoyed sunset cocktails and oysters on the lawn before heading to dinner at the inn’s restaurant, one of the island’s few fine dining spots and the Clinton’s favorite.

Another place worth checking out for a late afternoon drink is the Spring House Hotel, one of the island’s oldest hotel and a historic landmark with its mansard roof and wraparound veranda. It has even better panoramic views than the Atlantic Inn. When the sea breeze gets too chilly take shelter in the hotel’s cozy bar and have a New England clam chowder.

If you think you’re going to do some major shopping while you’re here then you’re going to be very disappointed. This is not the Hamptons and that’s the beauty of it. There are no high-end retailers or chain stores, which is a blessing in disguise. What you will find are a handful of independent boutiques and galleries showcasing local talent. 

Lazy Fish on Dodge Street was one of my favorite finds. Carolyn Perry, the owner pulls together an eclectic mix of vintage objects, home accessories, repurposed furniture and a collection of estate jewelry. I found a sterling silver locket from the thirties with RAF (my shortened nickname) engraved on the front that I had to have.

I also loved Rick Foreman’s Eylandt Antique inside the Payne’s Harbour View Inn. He got the name from an antique map when the island was called "Adriaen Block’s Eylandt", the Dutch spelling of island. He moved to Block Island ten years ago from Manhattan and goes on yearly trips to Montevideo to shop for antiques. He sells everything he buys except for one purchase that he may never part with and it’s parked right outside the store. It’s a 1931 Model A Ford delivery truck that once belonged to the Montevideo gas company. It took him nine long years to get it to island so the thought of parting with it is out of the question.

The charming antique façade of the Glass Onion has inspired artists and photographers for decades according to the store’s owner. Located at the top of the ferry landing of Old Harbor, the shop is full of unique gifts, jewelry, summer wear, bags and home accessories. I was eyeing a Saint James French sailor top but alas my size was sold out.

I highly recommend dropping by Juice’n’Java for a little tasty scone and freshly brewed coffee. It has been a local favorite for the past twenty years. They also offer organic teas, fine espresso and thirst-quenching specialty drinks served up by laid-back baristas. Bagels are flown in from NYC daily and the baked goods are made on the premises. The entry way is paved with surf art and has become its own tourist destination whether you’re there for the coffee or the art.

After biking around in the morning we made our way to New Harbor and had lunch at The Oar, another local favorite. Named after the hundreds of painted oars that hang from the ceiling and on the walls. The view of the harbor is pretty with hundreds of boats docked. They’re famous for their lobster rolls, clam chowders and mudslides (vodka, coffee liqueur and Irish cream liqueur). It’s a great spot for lunch and the prices are reasonable.

Mabel’s Cafe is a fun little spot to have a home style breakfast or lunch. Try their freshly baked muffins; they are so worth the calories. Besides, that’s what the bikes are for.

Wander over to the Abrams Animal Farm right across the Atlantic Inn. This small farm maintained by Justin Abrams and his family is more like a mini zoo. It is home to camels, llamas, emus, sheep, donkey, swans, kangaroos, ducks, a turtle, a yak and a famous Zedonk (a crossbreed between a Zebra and a donkey). Visitors are free to pet the animals and these animals are so used to people that the moment they see someone by the fence they walk over for their share of petting.

If you enjoy fine dining in a relaxed setting, go to the Hotel Manisses on Spring Street. The intimate dark paneled bar serves a hearty bistro menu, an impressive wine list and local seafood is prepared with herbs and vegetables from the hotel’s garden.

There are so many beaches on the island but we particularly enjoyed biking to Mansion Beach the most. Its location is the furthest among the other beaches on Crescent Beach and the least crowded. It lies at the end of a dirt road with the same name. The island’s most stately mansion once sat like a jewel on a hill over-looking Jerry’s Point. Fire destroyed the house and only the stonework is left.

We also made our way to Mohegan Bluffs for a very different beach experience. Descending on the steep stairway (141 steps) down the cliffs is not easy if you have vertigo like I do but I overcame it. I will almost do anything for a great photo. You can see all the way to Montauk on a clear day. At the bottom of the stairway is Bluff’s Beach, a secluded spot for swimming and a favorite among surfers. You’ll find some people engaged in DIY mud treatments using the damp clay within the beach’s perimeter.

We biked all the way to the North Lighthouse on Sandy Point at the northern end of the island. Past the lighthouse is a sandbar that is the tip of the island. This side of the beach is very rocky and the surrounding dunes are part of the Block Island National Wildlife Refuge so we had to be careful. On Cow’s Cove, on the way to the lighthouse you will see a stone memorial called Settler’s Rock. It was erected in 1911 in commemoration of the landing of the first European settlers on Block Island 250 years ago. According to history, because the island had no natural harbor, the people on board had to leave the ship and pushed the cows off the boats forcing them to swim ashore, hence the name Cow Cove. Swimming is absolutely prohibited due to the strong riptide.

What I loved most about Block Island was the laid back atmosphere. I could only imagine that if we stayed a bit longer we would get to know the locals by first name and they would know ours. It’s that kind of a place. We enjoyed our weekend so much we’ve decided to come back same time next year. We’ve already blocked it off our calendar.


This originally appeared in Rafe's regular column in Travelife Magazine, the Philippines' leading travel and lifestyle publication.

Fairytale Setting

After my first trip to Portugal several years ago I knew it wouldn’t be long before I returned. I stayed in Lisbon for a few days and enjoyed that trip so much I wanted to see what else the country had to offer. The people were warm, the food was delicious, the scenery was picturesque and the vibe was relaxed.

Every local I had met in Lisbon said I must go to Sintra, so who was I to disagree. They were all raving about how enchanting and mystical the town was. "Going to Sintra is like stepping into a fairy-tale!", my concierge exclaimed. I took the train from downtown Lisbon – one leaves every hour directly to Sintra. Can I tell you, I’m so glad I went because that short visit only peaked my curiosity to see even more.

This past summer I came back and stayed in the outskirts of Sintra in a small town called Colares. My boyfriend’s family was renting a house for a week and invited me to join them.

During the day we drove around to see the sites and neighboring towns and at night we would have a swim in the pool and cook at home. We loved buying from local farmers who set up roadside stalls selling produce fresh from their gardens. The prices were incredibly reasonable even with the Euro exchange rate and everything tasted so good.

Ever since Sintra was classified by the UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1995 throngs of tourists have traveled to Portugal to marvel at the historic sites this medieval town has to offer. The collection of magnificent palaces, grand homes and gardens coupled with the narrow and winding streets live up to Sintra’s mysterious, fairytale reputation.

The Pena Palace is definitely on top of my list and a must-see. It’s a fabulous pastiche of nineteenth century neo-moorish and neo-medieval styles; a great example of Portugese architecture during the Romantic period. Situated on one of the hills of the Serra de Sintra, it blends beautifuly with its’ verdant surroundings. Dating back to 1839 when the palace, formerly ruins of the Hieronymite Monastery, was bought by Dom Fernando II to convert it and build his fantasy home. With the help of German architect Baron Eschwege, he took inspiration from Bavarian and Moorish castles and constructed an elaborate conglomeration that has made this monument one of the seven wonders of Portugal and cultural icon.

We wandered around Pena Park before heading to the Palace. The Park was created the same time the Palace was being completed and it is a lush labyrinthe landscape of narrow paths and secluded spots. Dom Ferdinand ordered ferns and trees from all over the world to create this exotic garden covering almost 200 hectares.

The Moorish Castle is the perfect vantage point to see the vast Atlantic coastline, the town of Sintra and Pena Palace. It was built sometime between the 8th and 9th century by the Moors until it was taken over by Scandinavian crusaders in the 11th century. In 1830, Dom Ferdinand II attempted to restore the castle. While the walls and the towers were rebuilt, some areas were left intentionally in ruins. Go early in the morning or late afternoon when it’s not as hot. It’s a bit of a hike so wear comfortable shoes.

The Monserrate Palace is another prime example of Sintra Romanticism filled with Moghul-inspired ornamentation and designs. It was built in 1858 for Sir Franics Cook, an English merchant and art collector who made his fortune from trade with Brazil and designed by English architect James Knowles Jr. This palatial villa with it’s sprawing gardens is the perfect spot for an afternoon picnic.

Not far from Sintra is the Capuchin Convent or more widely known as The Cork Monastery because of the extensive use of cork within the structure. The monks that belonged to this humble branch of the Franciscans Order were devoted to poverty and found this convent in a secluded area a few miles from Sintra. Stepping into the sparse, dark and diminutive rooms was so claustrophobic I couldn’t possibly imagine what it must have been like back in 1560 when the convent was built. The monks were known for their detailed work covering walls in cork and seashells and carving a chapel out of rock using cork for insulation. Apparently in 1834, the monks suddenly abandoned the convent. I can’t blame them. If I were a monk I would have turned around and ran away screaming. Their living conditions were beyond austere.

Driving through the winding roads, we chanced upon the fabulous Quinta de Regaleira estate or the "Palace of the Millions". Built during the last days of the Portugese monarchy at the turn of the 20th century, this manor house mixes Gothic, Manueline and Renaissance styles all under one roof as was common during that period. It is surrounded by a garden filled with mythological and esoteric symbols -- statues of gods, mysterious wells, ponds, and grottoes. 

My favorite part was a dark and dank tunnel that ended at the bottom of a 5 storey deep well. The only way out was up the well shaft ascending a spectacular spiral staircase that apparently symbolizes death leading into a "Garden of Eden" or the entrance to Heaven. It could have been a set for Harry Potter.

Conveniently located in the center of town is the Sintra National Palace. It’s filled with Flemish tapestries, oil paintings and some amazing glazed tile work that Portugal is known for. The Stag room depicted a country hunting scene like a ‘toile de Jouy’ but all in blue and white tiles. Just like the other famous structures in the vicinity, the palace is a combination of Gothic, Moorish and Manueline styles having been built over many centuries from Moorish sultans to Queen Maria Pia. It also great views of Sintra from the windows. The views were so spectactular that there were as many people taking photos of the views as they were of the interiors. 

I loved seeing Royal kitchen. Inside there were two conical chimneys several stories high. You can almost imagine what it must have been like in the past when the cooks were preparing for a feast. These gigantic chimneys form a distinctive landmark on the Sintra skyline since they are the first things you see once you arrive into town.

After seeing our share of grandiose castles and homes we drove out to Cabo da Roca - the westernmost point of continental Europe. The panoramic view is absolutely breathtaking, the blue ocean going on and on eventually blending in with the blue sky. The poet Luis de Camoes described it as the place "where the land ends and the sea begins". 

We also drove through the picturesque seaside town of Cascais to have lunch by the beach and check out Boca do Inferno (literally Hell's Mouth). During high tide, while watching the spectacle of the violent waves crashing on the rocks, you can see why this spot earned it’s name. 

 If you’re only going to Sintra for a few days I would book a room at Tivoli Palacio de Seteais. This restored palace was built in the 18th century and is one of the most luxurious boutique hotels to stay in all of Portugal. Their claim to fame is that the famous poet Lord Byron worked on "Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage" in their front garden. The hotel is situated on the top of a hill so you have gorgeous views of Sintra from it’s restaurants. And if you fancy outdoor activities they have a tennis court, a pool and their own Equestrian center.

As Frank Sinatra sang, "Fairytales can come true, it could happen to you". You just have to make it to Sintra.



This originally appeared in Rafe's regular column in Travelife Magazine, the Philippines' leading travel and lifestyle publication.

Dutch Treat

I love long holiday weekends. They give me the opportunity to take a quick trip out of the city and go somewhere for a few days to chill, get lost and get inspired. Last Thanksgiving I decided to treat myself and go Dutch. I hopped on a plane and flew to the Venice of the North, Amsterdam.

The city’s name means dam of the Amstel River or Aemstelledamme as it was called back in 1204. The origins of the city go back as early as the thirteenth century when fishermen who lived along the banks of the River Amstel built a bridge across the waterway. The wooden doors on the bridge served as a dam, which protected the town from being flooded. The mouth of the river Amstel formed a harbor, which was key to Amsterdam’s prosperity because of all the trading that went through it. It is now the largest city of the Netherlands.

It is also often referred to as the Venice of the North because of all the canals that divide the city into ninety small islands, linked together by more than a thousand bridges. These bridges, the tree-lined canals and the mansions that line these canals make Amsterdam one of the most photogenic and charming cities in Europe. Almost seven thousand of these mansions are protected as historical monuments and as you walk along them at any time of the day, they give you that ‘time stood still’ feeling.

I stayed in the Nine Streets area because it is the most picturesque and charming location in the city. I checked in at Hotel Pulitzer and got a well-appointed room with a canal view. Robin Van Kooten, the hotel’s charismatic concierge gave me some great tips on where to dine, what to see and all sorts of insider tips.

The hotel also has a fabulous grill restaurant, Keizersgracht 238 with stunning views of the canal. I enjoyed having breakfast and lunch there while watching the Dutch go about their daily life.

Now let me warn you, you are most likely to get hit by a bicycle than a car so walk the streets careful and always look at bike traffic because there are more cyclists than drivers in Amsterdam. There are even parking garages for bikes. Even at the height of winter, you see people pedaling about braving the icy wind. It’s incredible.

Now let’s talk shop. De Negen Straatjes or The Nine Streets is my favorite shopping destination in Amsterdam. It’s named after the nine side streets connecting the main canals between Leidsestraat and Raadhuisstraat. This area has a diverse selection of small boutiques, cafés and bars. I loved ambling through the streets and going from store to store, stopping for a coffee at Harry’s Koffiehuis de Hoek to mingle with the locals.

If you didn’t already know this, I’m slightly addicted to vintage clothing and accessories. Fortunately, this neighborhood has a handful of unique shops that stock amazing pieces from the 50’s to the 80’s. I got a taupe shearling jacket for 40 Euro and silk cravattes for 10 Euro each! Absolutely insanely fabulous!

All that shopping can be exhausting. Conveniently at the end of the Nine Streets area there’s a small square called the Spui where I walked into the famous Café Luxembourg for some hot chocolate. On a cold winter day it is the perfect remedy for cold hands. If you happen to be here on a Friday there is a book market and on Sundays a modern art market.

I’ve always been a fan of Marcel Wander’s sense of whimsy, irony and larger-than-life aesthetic. Walking into Moooi Gallery over in the Jordaan neighborhood was like walking into a wonderland of curiosities. The enormous high-ceilinged former warehouse is packed with his classics like “Animal Thing”, the “Egg Vase” and the “Crochet Table” along with other life-size horses, pigs and rabbits posing as lamps or tables.
Believe it or not but the life-sized black horse with a lamp on it’s head is one of the store’s best sellers. One of my friends has this same horse lamp in the middle of his office and it really puts a smile on people’s faces upon entering.

The Rijks museum is worth a visit just to see the Rembrandts and Vermeers. The museum is still undergoing renovation so they’ve put the masters in a smaller space, which I managed to do in one hour giving me enough time to head over the Van Gogh museum. The museum has over 800 works of the artist. Seeing his paintings made we want to go to Provence. That’s on my checklist for this year.

Amsterdam is a city for foodies, full of fine dining choices from Dutch, Italian, French and Indonesian. My favorite was De Kas. Located about twenty minutes outside the city center in Frankendael Park, the restaurant grows their own vegetables, herbs and edible flowers which they grow in an old greenhouse that used to belong to the Municipal Nursery. The main dining room designed by Piet Boon is gorgeous! Be warned, it’s a prix fix menu but worth every Euro. Imagine my surprise when Chef Gert Jan Hageman stopped by my table, introduced himself and asked how I was enjoying myself. Fortunately I didn’t have to lie because I enjoyed every delectable bite of my dinner.

A hop and skip from the hotel is a fantastic wine bar called Vyne. It’s a dark, cozy, sexy spot emulating the atmosphere of a ‘brown café’. It’s packed with chic locals tasting wines from their impressive wine library. This is the sister spot of Envy, a stylish ‘delicatessen’ with a long communal bar serving up small and shareable portions much like a tapas bar.

Another good alternative is a small Indonesian restaurant called Sampurna right in the middle of the Flower market. Netherlands has a long history with Indonesia and as a result Indonesian food has become a popular component in Dutch cuisine. The restaurant offered reasonably priced Indonesian classics like Sate Ayam, Krupuk Udam, Nasi Goreng and Gado Gado. Eating here satisfied my craving for Asian food which I always have whenever I’m in Europe.

If you have time, take a day trip outside the city center to see the village of Marken and the windmills at Zaanse Schans.

A trip to Holland is not complete without seeing windmills. Over in Zaanse Schans, you’ll see six large working mills on the banks of the Zaan River. Imagine how the landscape must have looked like back in the nineteenth century when there were over four hundred of them by the river. I went into one of them that made artist’s pigment and observed a volunteer working the windmill dressed in overalls and traditional wooden clogs.

Meandering along the narrow alleys in Marken will give you a feel for a traditional Dutch fishing village with it’s green painted houses. It was a separate island up until 1957 when a causeway was built connecting it to the mainland. These days’ busloads of tourists come to see a picturesque view of old Holland.

I’m considering coming back for Queen’s Day in April, the biggest holiday in Holland and Amsterdam’s biggest party of the year. Imagine everybody wearing the color orange in celebration of her Majesty’s birthday. That must be a sight for soar eyes. I’ve seen pictures but I want to take my own, experience the revelry plus I love the color orange. Okay, I admit that I’m coming up with reasons to come back and go Dutch.

This originally appeared in Rafe's regular column in Travelife Magazine, the Philippines' leading travel and lifestyle publication.