The Tough Go Shopping

Can I tell you…about Fashion’s Night Out? We've all heard the line, “when the going gets tough, the tough go shopping” and up until recently lived by that motto. But as the economy crashed, the 'tough' stopped shopping resulting in a devastating domino effect that forced businesses to close leaving legions of people unemployed. As sales plummeted, retailers went into a panic, slashing prices left and right training consumers to only shop on sale. For anybody in the fashion industry, this was HELL on Earth! The situation needed fixing!

Anna Wintour to the rescue! Vogue, along with the City of New York and Council of Fashion Designers of America masterminded Fashion’s Night Out, “ a global initiative to promote retail, restore consumer confidence, and celebrate fashion”. Last September 10, after much anticipation and hoopla, hundreds of stores across the five boroughs ( and overseas) stayed open late for one big shoppathon hoping to lure back customers to shop.

Designers were asked to do personal appearances, come up with special items and even show off their hidden talents just for the evening. Everything from designer aprons ( Peter Som), printed canvas totes ( Proenza Schouler) ,singing ( Isaac Mizrahi and Oscar de la Renta), manning the cash register (Pharrell Williams), bartending ( Olsen twins) to catwalk lessons ( Alexander Wang).

Besides all the VIP appearances and activities, there was a limited-edition FNO T-shirt with 40% of the sales’ proceeds donated to the National September 11 Memorial & Museum at the World Trade Center.

First stop was Bergdorf Goodman. Padma Lakshmi the host of Top Chef was hosting a cookoff and had designers Peter Som, Cynthia Rowley, Naeem Khan, Gilles Mendel and Lela Rose submit their favorite recipes and had the restaurant pass them out to partygoers to try. My favorite, and not because he’s my BFF was Peter Som’s panko fried oysters with blood orange gastrique and tartar sauce. The restaurant was packed like sardines, I could barely breathe!

Everywhere else in the store was just as jampacked. Bumped into 70’s supermodel Pat Cleveland and her gorgeous daughter Ana van Ravenstein while I was on my way out.

 

Next up was Henri Bendels. The store was a zoo with shoppers everywhere. It was cool to see some cute girls wearing Rafe bags! After hobnobbing with my buyers and some customers we made our way downtown to the Meatpacking district to Stella McCartney. Vogue editor Tonne Goodman and actress Kate Hudson were hosting the party.

Right outside the store they were making fresh pizzas and let me tell you…the mob descended on those pies like piranhas each time they entered the store so much so that the pies never made it past a few steps from the door.

The scene was hilarious. “Nothing comes between me and my pizza”, remarked one very hungry fashionista. On a marathon evening like tonight, we all need our sustenance! But Kate was either running very late or we were just restless.

On our way further downtown we passed by Bleecker Street to see what Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren were up to. Between the two of them, they have practically turned this once quiet street into an outdoor mall.

You can always count on Marc to do something fun. They were inviting customers to line up and get their photos taken in a special Marc Jacobs set simulating a fashion shoot. Passed by Ralph to get a glimpse of Nacho Figueras but he had already left.

Eventually we ended up on Crosby Street to go to Opening Ceremony but that was a madhouse. So we decided to turn back and head towards the Bowery to Patricia Fields. Ugh, same situation.

At this point, we were just hungry and exhausted. Thank God Five Points (one of my favorite restaurants) is in the neighborhood.

So did the 'tough' go shopping? For everybody's sake, I certainly hope so but it’s tough to say. I do know a lot of T shirts were sold!

Robert Geller: Modern Romantic

Can I tell you about…Robert Geller. I met Robert last year through a common friend over lunch and I was instantly smitten. He’s laid back, thoughtful and genuine. He’s also a rising star in the menswear industry. Hailing from Hamburg, Germany, he moved to the USA to study at the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design. Upon graduating, he worked at Marc Jacobs, then became a partner and co-designer for the label Cloak and eventually launched his eponymous menswear label in 2007. He was recently named the winner of GQ magazine “Best New Menswear Designer in America” competition and was nominated for the CFDA Perry Ellis Menswear Designer of the year. Levis also collaborated with him on a capsule collection that just launched this September in Bloomingdales. Over al fresco lunch near his downtown Tribeca studio; we caught up and talked about everything under the sun…style related of course.

Rafe: The first time I saw your collection I was completely blown away. They were clothes I hadn’t seen before. Your designs are original, thoughtful, and provocative with unique details that a modern dandy can appreciate. What made you launch your own label?
Robert: Thank you! I started my own label because I felt that the clothes that I wanted to make had a client. I like to have a mix of toughness and sophistication that I don't think exists in the market. I think that this is essential when you launch a label. There is so much competition, it is easy to get lost in the crowd.

Rafe: What are 5 items you can’t live without and why?
Robert: My I Phone because it is my organizer and reminds me of my schedule. My old bicycle because it gets me around New York City and makes me feel like I live in a small town. A Margiela trench that I bought in Paris in 2000. It is just the right weight to take me from spring into summer. My wedding ring because it reminds me everyday how lucky I am to have found the partner of my dreams. My sketchbook that I have with me at all times, because it allows me to record my ideas whenever they may come.

Rafe: I think men are starting to dress up again and there’s a resurgence of haberdashery (neckties, bowties, hats) and tailoring in the market, even if it’s worn with high tops. What’s your take on this?
Robert: I think, especially in America, there has been this tradition of casual dressing that men are finally sick of. There is a real interest in men's clothing and some of the greatest accessories are ties and scarves and hats. Mixing this with a comfortable stylish look is not easy, but when it is done right, it can look really good.

Rafe: What does American style mean to you and how does your brand reflect it?
Robert: I think that American style embodies this sort of casual attitude that we are talking about. When done right it is a very sophisticated, comfortable style, but when it is bad, it can look sloppy. I like the aspect of comfort in clothing, while still looking fresh and pulled together.

Rafe: What do you think of the current trend of ‘pleated pants’ and slouchy proportions? Do you think they have any mileage or do you see it moving on and to what?
Robert: I think this slouchy oversized look is kind of cool and is a reaction to the super shrunken silhouette that has been popular in the past years. I think the future will be a mix. I don't think everyone will be wearing MC Hammer pants in the next five years, but playing with proportions is going to be very important.

Rafe: Music is often a key ingredient when designing a collection, what were you listening to when you designed your Fall Winter 09 collection, how did that influence you and by contrast, are you listening to something new now?
Robert: I always get more moody for the fall collection, I think that it is natural. I always listen to a lot of the Cure and Mazzy Star and I was listening to a bit of Gustav Mahler. Very poetic beautiful music. When Spring comes around I want energy. I fell in love with the Kooks last spring and still really like their Inside in/Inside out album. I also recommend the New Order playlist on Pandora.com. Lots of New Order, the Cure, the Smiths and Depeche Mode.
Rafe: As an accessory designer, I have to ask, what kind of bag do you carry every day?
Robert: When I carry one, which is not every day, I take the tote bag I made for my last spring show. We attached a hand-sewn leather flower to it. It is simple but it looks good.

Rafe: Every season, designers are pressured to come up with something new. How do you manage to stay true to your vision, evolve and still manage to surprise your audience?
Robert: It comes from my moods. I really just follow my instinct. There is no formula. I design what excites me and I think that my customer is similar to me and will also get excited by it.
Rafe: Being New Yorker, I always get asked for my inside scoop and favorite haunts. So I'm going to ask yours.
Weekend Brunch? Gigino at Wagner Park. Sit outside with the most beautiful view of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis island. It feels like you’re on a vacation.
Work Lunch? Le Pain Quotidien on West Broadway and Warren. This one is special and like my meeting room. The food is great and the atmosphere bright and very relaxed.
Dinner? Still Bacaro. This place opened a little more than a year ago and is hidden on Division street in the heart of Chinatown. I still have trouble finding it and I have been there over 40 times. Great atmosphere and great people on a weeknight.
Bar? I love the bar at Friedmanns, it is very beautiful and the atmosphere is great.
Weekend get-away? See Above...I don't get out much : -)
Art Gallery? Klaus von Nichtssagend. Super unpretentious whole in wall gallery in Brooklyn, but great taste and great art.
Museum? The Museum of Natural History. It is really magnificent.
Store? Odin. It has managed to really put together a great roster of designers. Every man that comes to New York should take a look.
Rafe: What are you absolute style faux pas? Please name 3 and why
Robert: I don't really have any. Things that look ridiculous on most people look great on some, it all depends on who can pull it off and who can't.

Rafe: Who is or who are your style icons?
Robert: The coolest guy in my opinion that has ever lived is Jean-Paul Belmondo.

Rafe: Since the title of my column is “Can I tell you”, what can you tell me that I should invest in this season?
Robert: I would say a nice pair of running shoes. If you are skinny, then everything looks good on... and off.

Robert’s collection is being sold at over 50 of the world’s most influential boutiques, including Isetan in Japan, Lane Crawford in Hong, Odin in New York and Fred Segal in Los Angeles.
To read more about Robert, check out his website: www.robertgeller-ny.com

Mid Summer Night

Can I tell you…about David Straube and Jim Kloiber’s rooftop party. Every year since I’ve known David and Jim they throw a fabulous sunset cocktail party to celebrate the summer. It’s a much anticipated event and one I don’t like to miss.I went with my PIC(partner in crime), fashion designer Peter Som and we met up with Jim Larkin and Aidan Kemp.
Who can resist a rooftop party with spectucular views of the city from every vantage point. Their rooftop is perfect because it spans the entire length of the apartment building so it can fit a large crowd quite comfortably and they've renovated it so it feels like you're on the chic Above 60 Thompson rooftop bar lounge.They always manage to draw in a great mix of friends; editors, stylists, publicists, art directors, writers, designers,event planners and random cuties. You can be sure to run into several people you know which always makes for a good time.There wasn’t a required dress code but since the guest list are comprised of people who are sartorially inclined, within the first hour the “theme” was pretty obvious. We were mad for plaid! And by that I mean madras plaids or ginghams. From shorts to shirts, this pattern kept turning up as guest upon guest ascended up on the roof.At one point, Sam Spector asked Prabal Gurung, “Did I miss the memo?” Shai Tertner on the other hand loved the pattern mix. “I feel like I’m part of the ‘in’ crowd”, he teased.The second theme was the solid navy polo shirt…Ralph, Lacoste or Abercrombie. I mean, really are they any others worth wearing?
As the sun set and the drinks flowed, things got a little out of hand…quelle surprise! Chris Constable got hold of one guest’s ginormous black and white hat and before you knew it, people were trying it on and striking campy poses.Eventually Chris grabbed Tenten Wu’s stilleto and started vogueing.Then he got up on one of the deck chairs in effort to mimic Jennifer Beals…much to everybody’s amusement. And when David tried to offer him a hand to get down, Chris mistook it as an invitation to dance. At this point, everybody was in tears laughing so hard. I love Chris’ joie de vivre!As the evening wore on, some of us were getting a little peckish, so when Bruce Pask mentioned that he felt like getting a burger, we all got excited. It was all so spur of the moment but we dashed out and headed to the East Village. Bruce took us to Black Iron Burger; a tiny pub known for its selection of micro brews and its signature Black Iron Burger. The menu is straight to point: burgers, a couple of salads, sandwiches and fried green pickled tomatoes. Several beers later, burgers and fries consumed and appetites sated, we rolled out unto the street and called it a night.I love summer nights like this. A great party with friends, a last minute dinner, and lots of laughter. What’s not to love?! Soon enough, the season will be over and it will all seem like a mid summer night’s dream.

Thursday Socials

Can I tell you…about Thursdays in the city. New York’s best social events are always held on Thursdays, always has been, always will be. I don’t know why but it is. So a few months ago, on a crisp Spring Thursday, my friends designer Peter Som, writer Rima Suqi and I decided we’d party hop.First stop was Shinique Smith’s opening at Yvon Lambert’s gallery in Chelsea. I met Shinique a few years ago through my girlfriend and museum curator Christine Y. Kim and we instantly hit it off. She’s funny, warm, thoughtful and a prolific artist. Her work has been steadily gaining momentum and was recently among the chosen few at the Rubell Family Collection show entitled “30 Americans” in their gallery in Miami.Shinique’s mixed media style referencing pop and urban street culture through collage and painting has made her a rising star in the Art World. This show was entitled,“Ten Times Myself". I was blown away by the show…her pieces were exuberant, powerful and energetic. Her work blurs the lines between sculpture and painting seamlessly.Art openings always draw in an eclectic crowd and it’s great for people watching. As we were heading out, we bumped into fashion editor Emil Wilbekin wearing his Rafe satchel. I love an unexpected Rafe sighting!Next up, we headed all the way downtown to Crosby Street, on the edge of Soho and Chinatown to the Super chic design store/gallery De Vera. On this insider street address, you’ll find Derek Lam, Jil Sander, Ted Muehling and Opening Ceremony. It’s a destination but it’s worth the trek. Federico de Vera is a good friend and an insanely talented jewelry designer, curator and collector of objets d’art.His store is like a mini museum of the most exotic artifacts from around the world and he has impeccable taste. His store is filled with exquisite examples of deities and Philippine saints, vintage Venetian glass, Japanese and Chinese lacquerware, and updated Georgian and Victorian jewelry.Federico's own jewelry designs are to die for. The guest list was an impressive mix of architects, artists, interior designers, editors and fashion designers.Can you imagine my excitement when Pierre Hardy walked in? If you don’t know who Pierre is, you should! Can I tell you…he’s major! On top of designing his own collection of shoes for men and women, he also designs Balenciaga’s women’s shoes and Hermes’ fine jewelry and women’s shoes. He’s a designer’s designer.I told him I had several of his shoes and he was so gracious about it. Listen, when somebody adores you like I do him, how can you not be thrilled?! When I meet people who are so effusive about their love for my designs, I’m always flattered and humbled at the same time.All those cocktails leave me hungry and it’s impossible to eat at these events…as much as I try to nibble. So Peter and I dashed to the Lobster Shack up the street for a proper meal while Rima stayed to mingle some more. That was a fun night. Note to self: Thursday Socials are always great!

Super Kawaii

Can I tell you …about the Sakura Matsuri Festival. Every Spring season the Brooklyn Botanical Garden celebrates the Japanese tradition of Sakura Matsuri(cherry blossom festival). Hundreds of people congregate to join the festivities and see the flowers in full bloom from BBG’s 220 cherry trees. In a week or a week and half, the flowers will all fall.
In Japanese culture, the short lifespan and fragile nature of the cherry blossom makes it even more beautiful and precious. During Sakura Matsuri in Japan, throngs of people leave work early so they can picnic at the parks or whereever they can view these flowers. As early as 1912, cherry trees were planted in the USA as a gift from the People of Japan. In the last 30 years, the festival has become a much anticipated and celebrated tradition.In all my years of living in New York, I have never been to see the cherry blossoms at the gardens. Mom has been going for years and each time she invited me I had some excuse not to go. This year I decided to put an end to that.Visitors inspired by the theme and wore Japanese costumes emulating Geishas, Maikos and Ninjas. Manga obsessed kids were performing their favorite scenes in the gardens. Little girls got dressed as maikos and some teenagers indulged their Lolita fantasies dressing in super girly outfits in pink in homage to the blossoms. They all looked super kawaii!This is the 28th year of the Japanese festival, which features two days of taiko drumming, butoh performances, and samurai-sword demos among the blossoming trees. Other highlights include ikebana, manga, and origami workshops and demonstrations.The BBG itself is spectacular. Built in the late 1800s, it used to be an ash dump and was gradually developed into what it is today; the pride of Brooklyn representing the best in urban gardening and horticultural display. The Garden is made up of many exquisite and historic specialty gardens, including the Japanese-Hill-and-Pond-Garden, the Children's Garden, the Native Flora Garden, the Cranford Rose Garden, the Alice Recknagel Ireys Fragrance Garden, and the Steinhardt Conservatory. While walking the Japanese garden I had a sudden feeling of Dejavu, like I was in Kyoto for a split second.I'm inspired by everything I see and I'm glad I went. The flowers were just so pretty and pink, especially when the petals start falling like confetti all around you and blanket the ground like a carpet. You can see how the colors of nature make their way into my subconscious and eventually into my collection. Aren't these bags super kawaii!

Go West

Can I tell you about…shopping in Los Angeles. I was recently in the city of Angels for a long weekend to catch up with friends and do a little trendspotting. Over the years, Angelinos have developed their own sense of style and have even launched certain brands into the spotlight as a result of being worn by celeb trendsetters. Hello, remember UGGs?! Now, you can actually say “that’s so LA” as a sartorial reference point.For day, the look is more relaxed, understated, casual and intentionally somewhat disheveled but with a rock and roll edge and a "because I can" attitude. For the red carpet, they go all out! The current obsession with celebs and what they wear has only added to the allure of the Hollywood lifestyle and aspiring to look like one lives it. Of course, it doesn't hurt to have a huge concentration of celebs, demi- celebs and stylists all living within driving distance from Chateau Marmont. As a result, LA has become an accidental style mecca.Now a trip to Lala land would not be complete without a celeb sighting. I went to check out an MTV award gifting suite that I was a part of. I usually don’t like going to these events but since I was in town, I thought a drive by was in order. As I was getting ready to leave, in comes Ugly Betty’s Eric Mabius with his wife Ivy Sherman. Since I can’t give him a handbag, she had no choice but to take one for him. And you can just imagine the look on her face when I handed her my printed snake clutch that complimented her dress! A happy wife makes a happy husband because he happily posed for the paparazzi avec moi.
Later that day, as I was perusing the jeans at the Diesel store on Melrose place, I literally bumped into American Idol runner up Adam Lambert. I normally would not approach a celeb for a photo op especially on their day off but what are the chances of ever seeing him again? He was totally sweet about getting his photo taken ( he’s obviously new at this) and even chatted with me a bit about the whole ‘not winning’ the title. He was refreshingly positive about the turn of events. He knows he’s made it now so everything else from here on will be a walk in the park.If you want to know what’s hip and happening in LA, then you have to make your way to Fred Segal Melrose. They have the whole look down pat from the sales associates to the way they merchandise the store. This time they were working the “Commando Surfer” look and I know it sounds disparate but you know what, it actually worked. That’s LA for you, it’s all about the mix.
Since I was in the neighborhood I headed over to see Philip Lim’s new boutique on Robertson. By New York standards, it’s a gorgeous, sprawling space of undulating walls covered in the kind of foam used in recording studios. Philip has a deft hand when it comes to color, cut and details. That's why he's become a fave amongst Hollywood A listers.Next up was Fred Segal Flair in Santa Monica. Owner and buyer Jeannine Braden has always been ‘au courant’. She just ‘gets it’. Jeannine developed her sharp eye and eclectic aesthetic while styling the Go-Gos back in the 80s and Rolling Stone covers. She loves color, print , humor and mixes designer with streetwear and vintage. She’s my kinda girl.On my must see list is Opening Ceremony, a NY downtown institution recently opened an outpost in West Hollywood in what used to be Charlie Chaplin’s dance studio. It’s a destination store but in LA, everything is a destination so it doesn’t matter. I loved their ‘mini-mall concept’ and it especially worked here where they had ‘shop in shops’ for Hello Kitty, Acne Jeans, Alexander Wang, Nom de Guerre, Schiesser Revival, their own Opening Ceremony label and their most recent collection in collaboration with Japanese mass retailer Uniqlo.
The last but not the least, is the Confederacy located in the artsy neighborhood of Los Feliz.
It's a deceptively large boutique with women’s clothing and accessories in the front and mens in the back separated by a litte outdoor veranda. Conveniently right beside it is a famous celeb watering hole, Cobras and Matadors. So after shopping, they head over for some tapas. Unfortunately the evening I was there, none such sightings occurred. I had just missed a huge party they threw for Matt Albiani’s book about Surfers. Apparently, it was a celeb packed party. C’est la vie. You win some, you lose some. Next!
So if you're feeling the need to go trendspotting, I suggest you go West.