Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Shanghai'd


Can I tell you...about my weekend in Shanghai. Last Nov.3 I flew to Shanghai for the weekend from Hong Kong. I hadn't been in a few years and wanted to see what had changed since my last trip. I went with my friend Douglas Ting, who fortunately for me speaks fluent Mandarin. What a difference that made! Last time I went 5 years ago, I had the hotel write me little notes for all the addresses I wanted to go to. I couldn't be as spontaneous. This time I could go wherever and whenever.
We stayed at the Westin, a stones' throw away from the Bund where most of the action still is. Some of the restaurants that were popular then are institutions at this point. M on the Bund is still one of the best spots for lunch because of the location and the food. It overlooks the Pudong side and the view is spectacular on a clear-ish day. Gorged on their dessert special called the Pavlova(meringue with fruits,lots of it).
This was a packed weekend so I'll have to break it up in several posts.
First of, the quest for the famous dumpling called Xiao Long Bao proved to be not an easy one. Xiao Long Bao literally means small basket dumplings. These buns are traditionally (and still) steamed in bamboo baskets, hence the name. It originated many years ago, in a small town off Shanghai call Nanxiang. Thus, the association with many shops by the name of Nanxiang.
In the end we ended up in a restaurant actually called Nanxiang in the heart of crowded tourist landmark Yu Gardens, where people wait for hours in line just to have the pleasure of scooping up this typical Shanghainese delicacy.
Some people waited in line at their 'to go' counter and literally just park themselves and chow. We opted for table service and I don't know what Douglas said to the maitre'd but we were promptly whisked away from the line and got a table like VIPs. I would have waited because it was well worth it.
This dumpling is not easy to make or eat. At first glance they look like every other dumpling, but when you bite into them, you know that there's something special going on inside. Xiao long baos are "juicy dumplings," which are filled with not only a regular meat and vegetable stuffing, but with broth.

So whats the best way to consume the dumpling?

While there are no hard rules on how to consume the dumplings, there are quite a few ways. Most Shanghaiese would recommend these 2 techniques.

Technique 1
Hold the dumpling with your spoon, bite off a small section of the dumpling skin, sip out the soup, dip the rest of it into vinegar and eat the rest. I saw all the locals do this so effortlessly.

Technique 2
Put the entire dumpling in your mouth, give it a gentle bite. Experience the dumpling explode as you drink up the broth.

Fabulicious!

10 comments:

pariska said...

Seems like you had a great time there )
Can't wait till your Russian post )
Big hug from Moscow friends )))

kate said...

wow, that XLB sure looks delicious. I wonder if they have that here in NY Chinatown. thanks for sharing, this is a great post. I'm eager to see your other Shanghai pics.

Camille Chiong said...

OMG! I was in Shanghai last Nov 3, too! :) China's is really beautiful. I'm so inlove with the country. :) For me, it was a nice time to visit Shanghai because the weather was just perfect. :)

You're right, XLB is a must try. I do technique 1 with my dumplings because the broth can be hot!

Asian Models Blogger said...

How fabulous is that? I've been wanting to go to Shanghai for awhile now. Am planning a summer trip.

Anonymous said...

First time to comment but long-time reader....To borrow your phrase, can I tell you how much I love your blog!!! I love your stories about your travels. Plus I went to your sample sale last week ( my 4th time) and I loved your stuff as always. I never leave without something and the bag(Maggie washed tote) I wanted was there waiting for me.

Anonymous said...

How come you dont visit Manila? We are so proud of you.

Rafe Totengco said...

Anonymous,
I'm hoping to finally make it back home next year around March. Keep your fingers crossed.

Anonymous said...

your coming home would be a big event and a major press opportunity I'm sure. you have so many fans here in the Philippines who love what you do and are so proud of what you've accomplished. keep up the great work and the blog, it's really fun to read. I look forward to reading it weekly.

Oh for the love of food! said...

Another great post as always and incredible pics!
Have a wonderful, meaningful and safe Christmas Rafe!

Candid Cool said...

that Pavlova looks good, and those dumpling sounds scrumptious.