Goin to Gion

Can I tell you...about the Gion District in Kyoto. After my trip to Hong Kong I had to go to Tokyo for a few days. Instead of staying in the city, I decided to take the weekend off and go to Kyoto with my girlfriend Mana Igarashi, an editor for Spur fashion magazine.

First stop was an area called Gion, one of the oldest districts in Kyoto. It's famous because of the cluster of ochayas (tea houses) dating back from the Shogun era and it's the best place to spot maikos and geishas strutting about. Some of these tea houses are members only and in most cases cater to a strictly Japanese clientele.
I was lucky enough to get a few snapshots of these 'artists' in full regalia. They obliged me because I asked so politely but as soon as I took the shot, the were gone in an instant. You can just imagine the amount of attention they receive as they try to go from tea house to tea house. Everybody wants to take a photo and I can only assume it's an absolute nightmare for them.
The district is a bit of an outdoor mall with stores selling anything associated with geishas and their tea houses. Vintage kimono swatches as well as actual vintage kimonos, porcelain tea cups, sock and shoe stores. One particular fabric store is famous because of the amount of inventory it carries. When I was there, a mother and daughter came in dressed in traditional kimono. The mother was helping her daughter choose a new kimono for a special ceremony. It was like being caught in a time warp watching the two of them discuss and consider each print and design as the different kimonos were being laid out for their perusal. I went crazy of course and bought my share of swatches for my personal collection. Many of you may already know, I'm a bit of a printaholic.
On the weekends apparently, it's becoming quite fashionable to don a kimono with your girlfriends and go to brunch and walk around town just like the old days. I saw a boy and a girl both wearing traditional attire holding hands like they stepped out of an ancient hiroshige. The most amazing thing was that other people appeared to be completely oblivious to them. I seemed to be the only one looking at them, the obvious tourist that I was.
Even Minnie Mouse got into the act and got a geisha make over.

The Silk Road

Can I tell you...about Hermes silk scarves. During my trip in Hong Kong, Hermes held an exhibit entitled 'Once upon a silk' inside the Pacific Place Mall. At the end of the 'pop-up' gallery they held a demonstration of what goes into making an Hermes scarf.
They flew in 2 master craftsmen from Lyon, France where the scarves are printed and still made today.

The process was truly fascinating. They brought in the engraved screens, cans of dye and yards of silk twill to print on. It was heaven, especially to printaholic like me. Depending on the intricacy of the artwork, each scarf can take up to 24 individual screens to make and hours worth of labor. Each screen represents a color and these screens are massive. Each scarf is painstakingly hand printed to ensure the artisanal tradition and quality that Hermes is known for. The scarves are then sent to be 'hand rolled', a stitching technique that requires years of experience and a sure hand because it has to be invisible to the untrained eye. All luxury scarves are finished with this stitch. Since 1937, over 1,500 designs have been produced by the company. The lectures were done entirely in French (bien sur!)and were translated in English and Cantonese at different times of the day. This went on for a whole week and I was lucky to witness one, even if it was in Cantonese. My French classes came in handy so I got the essence of what they were saying.

You can just imagine how many scarves they sold during this period. I call that really 'kick ass marketing'. I was tempted to buy one for my Mom but I just bought her one last year in St.Barts and I have 'a scarf a year' quota.
I must say that seeing the demonstration made me believe in and appreciate the brand more than ever, not just because everyone else does, but because they make beautiful things that you want to keep and pass down through generations. Now that's the kind of reputation worth aspiring for.

Glee at the Kee

Can I tell you...about the Kee Club. I was back in Hong Kong this past April for my usual pre-collection trip. What you have to understand is that a trip to Hong Kong is not complete without a night at the Kee. It's a private club for members only. I'm sort of an honorary member because all my friends are and this club is one of their favorites.
The energetic and forever jubilant manager Marina Bullivant makes going here so welcoming and easy, like going to her apartment for drinks. Champagne is on a constant refill. Thank God they don't give me hangovers. My friend David Jacob ( a CEO by day ), DJ's here every other weekend as his hobby and Marina is happy to indulge him. Not because he's cute but because he's a f___ing really good DJ! In fact he's so good that the famous Pacha club in Ibiza has asked him to spin 2 summers in a row. Trust me, once he starts spinning that dance floor gets so jam packed it's claustrophobic! I'm amazed that floor hasn't collapsed with all the bumping, jumping and grinding going on.
Another reason why I love going to the Kee is because I see my share of 'Rafe bags' on the prettiest girls. Who wouldn't love that?! That's the ultimate compliment to any designer. Naturally I brought my camera to document these lovely ladies carrying my product. It helps that they're my girlfriends of course. That's what friends are for, right?
The next evening I decided to take it easy and grabbed a bite with Tatler fashion editor Blue Carreon and his partner Bruce. We met at Gaia, a lovely Italian restaurant in Sheung Wan. PR Diva Shirley Hiranand met us later for more drinks and we ended up closing the place. Blame it on the champagne refills. The party never ends...in Hong Kong.