Shanghai'd

Can I tell you...about my weekend in Shanghai. Last Nov.3 I flew to Shanghai for the weekend from Hong Kong. I hadn't been in a few years and wanted to see what had changed since my last trip. I went with my friend Douglas Ting, who fortunately for me speaks fluent Mandarin. What a difference that made! Last time I went 5 years ago, I had the hotel write me little notes for all the addresses I wanted to go to. I couldn't be as spontaneous. This time I could go wherever and whenever.
We stayed at the Westin, a stones' throw away from the Bund where most of the action still is. Some of the restaurants that were popular then are institutions at this point. M on the Bund is still one of the best spots for lunch because of the location and the food. It overlooks the Pudong side and the view is spectacular on a clear-ish day. Gorged on their dessert special called the Pavlova(meringue with fruits,lots of it).
This was a packed weekend so I'll have to break it up in several posts.
First of, the quest for the famous dumpling called Xiao Long Bao proved to be not an easy one. Xiao Long Bao literally means small basket dumplings. These buns are traditionally (and still) steamed in bamboo baskets, hence the name. It originated many years ago, in a small town off Shanghai call Nanxiang. Thus, the association with many shops by the name of Nanxiang.
In the end we ended up in a restaurant actually called Nanxiang in the heart of crowded tourist landmark Yu Gardens, where people wait for hours in line just to have the pleasure of scooping up this typical Shanghainese delicacy.
Some people waited in line at their 'to go' counter and literally just park themselves and chow. We opted for table service and I don't know what Douglas said to the maitre'd but we were promptly whisked away from the line and got a table like VIPs. I would have waited because it was well worth it.
This dumpling is not easy to make or eat. At first glance they look like every other dumpling, but when you bite into them, you know that there's something special going on inside. Xiao long baos are "juicy dumplings," which are filled with not only a regular meat and vegetable stuffing, but with broth.

So whats the best way to consume the dumpling?

While there are no hard rules on how to consume the dumplings, there are quite a few ways. Most Shanghaiese would recommend these 2 techniques.

Technique 1
Hold the dumpling with your spoon, bite off a small section of the dumpling skin, sip out the soup, dip the rest of it into vinegar and eat the rest. I saw all the locals do this so effortlessly.

Technique 2
Put the entire dumpling in your mouth, give it a gentle bite. Experience the dumpling explode as you drink up the broth.

Fabulicious!

Schnabel Show

Can I tell you ...about Julian Schnabel's exhibit in Hong Kong. I was in Hong Kong this November for work (what else) and I was invited by Alex Seno, a writer for the International Herald Tribune, to come to the opening on November 6.
This was Schnabel's first exhibit in Hong Kong and his first visit to the region. I had to go to see this rare event. I've always wanted to see his 'plate' paintings. The 40 works in the exhibition span his career from the 80's to today.
This was a show on the road. It had just come from Beijing and was travelling next to Shanghai then to Seoul,Korea.
It was amazing to see all these Schnabels all together. I've always wanted to see all his other works.

There was the 'plate' portrait of Anh Duong his former girlfriend and now an accomplished painter herself and of his current wife Olatz.
Julian himself was there, wheeling around George Block, a major art collector.

Kristin Scott Thomas made an appearance and I desperately tried to take a good photo. Paparazzi I'm not so the photos are a bit blurred. Yes, I'm keeping my day job.
My bffs Shirley Hiranand and Reyna Harilela also showed up wearing their Rafes. Also met Olivia Toth, Features editor of Hong Kong Tatler, also wearing her Rafe bag. We slipped away while David Tang was giving a speech to a casual dinner over at Central with 9 other girlfriends. What could be more fun than a night of art and gossip.

7th on Sale

Can I tell you...about 7th on Sale. Last November 15, the CFDA & Vogue magazine hosted the biggest and chicest sample sale of the year to raise money for the fight against HIV and Aids. Months of planning and thousands of designer donations later, the 69th Regiment Armory was transformed into a majestic medieval castle replete with a bazaar full of merchandise all priced at 70% retail! I donated several choice samples from my Fall collection. By the time we got there, only 1 was left, which is a good sign.

I went with my girlfriend Ann Watson, who also happens to be the fashion director of Henri Bendels. We came for dessert, shopping and for some good old people watching. This was a much anticipated event. Hordes of celebrities, socialites, fashionistas and designers showed up and shopped til they dropped.
How can you resist cashmere sweaters for $60 in 20 colors. Oy, it was not easy. There were books, shoes, bedding, mens, kids, womens, home and art! My favorite were iconic photographs from the pages of Vogue. Unfortunately those sold like hotcakes. Within an hour they were all sold out.

The best one was Peter Lindbergh's photo of Christy, Naomi, Cindy and Linda all wearing Chanel biker chic on location in Dumbo. That sold for $50k!

Fashion illustrations by Ruben Toledo were sold instantly of course. Darn!
We bumped into Tracy Reese, wearing her Rafe gold python clutch. John Bartlett was casually going through the racks of menswear. Thakoon, Philip, Narciso, Donna, Diane,and Peter (you know all their last names, don't you) were all busy shopping and schmoozing.
Actors Jennifer Connelly, Kate Bosworth and Ashley Oslon did some major credit card damage as well. Natalia Vodianova was wearing a gorgeous vintage Valentino pink chiffon with ostrich feathers at the hem. I managed to snap the back view.
We caught up with Mary Alice Stephenson who is co-hosting America's Smartest Model...really funny in a sic sort of way.

Constance White was telling me her Rafe bag story, apparently everybody has one!
The sale opened to the public for the next three days. This event's goal is to raise over $3.4 million. If you missed the actual shopping event, you can still go and buy online via E-bay. So what are you waiting for...shop!