River of Life

Can I tell you ... about my trip to India. Every year David and I go away for the holidays. Last year was Thailand and this year we decided to go to India. It's been on my wishlist for a while and was determined to fulfill it this year. We planned an extensive trip that would take us from Delhi, Varanasi, Agra, Alwar, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai. Yes, I know it's sounds overwhelming and it was. To spare you an epic piece I'm going to split my entries in installments because there are way too many photos and way too many stories to tell.

First off, Varanasi; the oldest living city in the world ( 3000 years old enough for you?) and a place all Hindus consider holy because of its proximity to the river Ganges. For all Hindus, this is where they come to be cremated to attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and re-birth. In fact, there are several crematoriums on the river that go on 24/7. People make pilgrimages to this city just to ask for blessings, take a dip, bring their dead to be cremated or to throw their ashes into the river. It's a multi functional, multi purpose river.

We caught the Puja with the Brahmin priests at the Dasaswamedh Ghat at dusk. It was like a rave party! The priests have a highly dramatic, fluid and synchronized choreography that starts with a single lamp and climaxes to a veritable conflagration. The crowds gather everyday at sunset to witness this ceremony and apparently the same puja is performed here every night to ensure that the sun will rise in the morning. The steps are filled with people, mostly Indian but many tourists as well. The air was thick with the smell of incense, huge candelabras between each platform glowed like chandeliers and the chanting crowd was hypnotic. It was so electrifying that David and I got goose bumps as we sat in our boat. We both realized we were witnessing something truly special and extraordinary. The bells, drums and chanting reached a fever pitch crescendo as the last of the offerings were thrown to the river, then... a dramatic silence! The holy men bowed respectfully to the River Ganges and puja is over. The crowd remained solemn for a few moments, as if hypnotized by what they had just experienced. Then we breathed a sigh of relief and awoke from our trance. It was intense and a feast to the senses.

Getting there was an adventure in itself, we were caught up in the river of humanity and it's like nothing you've ever imagined. Cows are lazily walking in the middle of the street causing havoc, the rickshaws, cars and motorbikes are all snaking through each other. The honking is non stop and people are coming in droves, scurrying to get to the river banks on time. As the sun starts to set the rush to catch the puja intensifies and there is this palpable feeling of urgency.

I've heard of all sorts of outrageous stories about people doing all sorts of unthinkable activities on the Ganges: bathing, drinking, washing their dishes or their clothes, praying and throwing the ashes of their loved ones into it. Can I tell you... it's all true!
In the wee hours of the morning, we came back to see the river come alive and watch the sun rise. It was so tranquil and ethereal as our boat slowly floated by people going through their daily rituals on the river . There was a slight chill in the air with only sounds of the birds and a few people chanting in an distance. What a dreamscape. We were totally entranced. This was truly a once in a lifetime and unforgettable experience. Namaste India!