Bastian of Style

Can I tell you…about Michael Bastian. Ever since he launched his eponymous men’s wear line in 2006 at Bergdorf Goodman I’ve been seriously smitten. After working with luxury powerhouses like Sotheby's, Tiffany & Co., Polo Ralph Lauren, and most recently, Bergdorf Goodman, (where he was the men's fashion director for five years) it was inevitable that he would create his own label. His M.O. of “ something modern and luxurious, but also a little broken down and familiar” was an instant hit. I spent a relaxed afternoon with Michael in his West Village apartment chatting about several subjects…all style related of course. I thought I'd share our conversation with you.RT:The first time I saw your collection at Bergdorfs I thought I died and went to heaven. They were clothes that looked like I should already have in my wardrobe but didn’t. I coveted every item. They were timeless, effortless, with subtle fit and details that every man can appreciate. Was this one of the reasons why you launched your own label?

MB:You've hit on precisely one of the reasons I started my line-- when I was at BG, there were always a lot of things on our seasonal 'shopping list' that we could never find-- ie: the perfect chino, a slim cashmere v-neck, the perfect oxford button-down, etc-- but all done at a luxury level and with a modern fit. Not over-designed, just perfect. And that was what I set out to address with my line-- classic American pieces that an informed, discerning guy could wear every day.
RT: What are 5 items that every stylish man should have in his wardrobe and why?
MB: The five pieces I can't live without are: 1- a perfect navy crewneck cashmere sweater 2- a slim gray flannel trouser 3- blue & white pinstripe oxford buttondown shirt 4- a good down vest that you can smash into your bag just incase it gets cold and 5- a pair of beige 5-pocket corduroys.RT: I think men are starting to dress up again and there’s a resurgence of haberdashery (neckties, bowties) and tailoring in the market, even if it’s worn with Jack Purcells. What’s your take on this?
MB: I agree with this statement. I think the most interesting part of this trend is that it's being led by younger guys who may have never had to wear a tie to work, but now do so because it makes a cool, personal statement. The minute the pressure came off, suits and ties started to be desirable again.RT: What does American style mean to you and how does your brand reflect it?
MB: American Style to me is really made up of three menswear elements-- classic old Brooks Brothers preppy, military elements, and sports/tech clothing. When you mix these three elements together (making sure it never looks too thought out) you come up with what I consider American men's style. The trick though is never letting it look too forced or studied. Even if you spent all night planning what you're going to wear the next day, it should never look like it. The ideal is perfectly imperfect.RT: This current trend of ‘shrunken’ proportions, do you think that has any legs or do you see it moving on and to what?
MB: The thing about men's vs. women's is that men's trends move so much slower since the basic elements never change. So something as big as the move to more fitted clothes is probably going to be with us for at least a couple more years. That said, I've been slowly working in more oversized things, such as a wide-leg pleated chino, a bigger rain coat and a big comfy wrap cardigan, because the guy who was the first to adopt the smaller fit is now looking for the next thing.RT: What’s your take on the whole ‘casual Fridays’ phenomenon, love or hate? Is there something that guys should keep in mind when dressing casually for work.
MB: This whole “Casual Fridays” thing has changed everything. It caught most guys off guard, meaning that they had always spent the time, money and effort on their tailored 'work' clothes, and now they didn't need to wear those, so they were stuck with a mish-mash of low-end sports stuff they used to wear on the weekends. Now, hopefully, they are beginning to see the value in more refined sportswear, which is where I come in.

RT: As an accessory designer, I have to ask, do you wear a tote or messenger bag?
MB: I'm more of a tote guy-- but this is a loaded question. I never want to look like one of those tragic upper east side decorators with their monogrammed LL. Bean bags, so I carry a beat-up white canvas tool bag. Really macho, right? :-)
RT: For the record, I’m also a tote kind of guy so you’re in good company Michael.

RT: Every season, designers are pressured to come up with something new. How do you manage to stay true to your vision, evolve and still manage to surprise your audience?
MB: So far, it hasn't been a problem. I think my 5 years at BG trained me as to just how far men are willing to push forward each season. I always think 'I've got to give my guys a reason to buy this new shirt/chino/polo etc. Usually it's just a subtle tweak to the details or fit. Fabrics and colors, however, change significantly each season-- this is where guys are willing to play around a little more.RT: As a fellow New Yorker, I always get asked for my inside scoop and favorite haunts.
Weekend Brunch? Sarabeth's in the Whitney Museum
Work Lunch? The Four Seasons
Dinner? Balthazar (still)
Bar? Bemelman's Bar in the Carlyle Hotel (oh-- and Splash ;-)
Weekend getaway? Buck's County, PA
Art Gallery? Staley-Wise Photography
Museum? The Museum of American Folk Art
Store? Bergdorf Goodman Men (still)

RT: What are you absolute style faux pas? Please name 3 and why.
MB: I really always appreciate it when people take risks with their clothes, so it's hard for me to pinpoint what never to do, but I've got to say the three things that will always ruin even the most perfect outfit are:
1: being rude to people who can't defend themselves or get away such as waiters, cab drivers, sales people, etc. I find this unforgivable.
2: not holding up your end of the conversation at a party or dinner-- if you accept an invitation to go out, it's your job to be happy and amusing. Bill Blass taught me this.
3: taking yourself (or your clothes for that matter) too seriously. Life is random and messy, and sometimes a glass of wine is going to get spilled on your new pants. Laugh it off.
RT: If you had your choice, guys should dress like….
MB: If I had my choice, guys should always dress like themselves, only better. Or at least feel better. I think most American guys are intimidated by 'fashion' and clothes, and should just do what makes them feel neat, confident and comfortable.

RT: Since the title of my column is “Can I tell you”, what can you tell me that I should invest in this season?
MB: The one thing you should invest in for Fall '09 is something that makes you smile every time you wear it-- could be my Koala sweater, Magic Monkey hat or something your Grandma knit for you. Don't be afraid to add something a little crazy and personal every day-- this is what makes dressing up fun. And it gives you something to talk about at those dinner parties.

Now in it’s sixth season, Michael Bastian’s collection is available in fine retailers in America, Canada, Europe, Asia and the Middle East.
All images featured here are from Michael's Fall Winter 08 collection.
FYI, I just saw his Spring Summer 09 and I'm.....swooning!!!