Up Close and Personal

Can I tell you about...New York Fashion Week. It's that time of the year again and this season I was really looking forward to seeing what designers would be doing in light of the global crisis. The show must go on after all. There will always be big shows for more established brands with deep pockets. However, for smaller brands this is a very challenging time. How to stand out and be noticed during one the busiest times in the fashion industry. Not everybody can afford to be showing at the tents. Fortunately New York is filled with unique spaces to do more intimate presentations. Art galleries, photo studios, empty warehouses, and iconic landmark locations. There's something for everybody.My friend Monique L'huillier showed at the Plaza's Oak Room for the first time breaking away from her usual runway format at Bryant Park. She said between the economy and the upcoming Oscars, it seemed like a good idea to keep it short and sweet. She was scheduled to fly out the next day to do fittings for some major Hollywood A-listers. A handful of models posing about, overflowing champagne, some hors'doeuvres and in a few minutes it was all over.The beaded and tulle dresses were really special and signature Monique but I loved the jersey pieces. They looked modern and fresh, especially styled with snagged sheer body stockings and layers of necklaces by Fenton, it gave Monique's pretty aesthetic an edgier slant.Prabal Gurung's debut collection was held at the Flag Art foundation in Chelsea. It was bold, graphic and luxurious. Focusing on an edited palette of black, white and red. These were great cocktail shakers and red carpet worthy numbers. The show was perfectly cast by James Scully and styled impeccably by Tina Laakkonen.Prabal paid his dues working for Bill Blass for the past 5 years and his taste for finer things are definitely obvious in his designs. Double faced cashmere, hand-sewn feathers and intricate beading were all elements that made up his luxe capsule collection. The next day, he landed on the cover of WWD! Prabal is off to a great start.Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock, the designers behind the label Vena Cava, also held their presentation at the Eyebeam gallery in Chelsea. Their artful leanings took them to a slightly punkish and sparkly place. Lisa Mayock was inspired by a neighbor who used to be a 'gem huntress' in the eighties.
They collaborated with the artist Marisa Tesauro, who shredded and scattered over 30,000 CDs inside the triangular stage for the show. The collection showed elements of exposed zippers, nailhead studs, some holographic sequins and metallic fringe.
Chris Benz showed in a raw warehouse space in Chelsea that once stored road salt. For this collection, he dipped his girls in color, head to foot! He favored a bold and strong palette: Yves Klein blue, bright lemon yellow, and fire-engine red, in every imaginable fabrication from silk charmeuse, melton wools and fur. My friend Alex Sanchez of Lancome gave the girls "Underground Glam-glossy Granite" smokey eyes using Lancome's Piha gloss and a muted lip.I love a big full blown runway show, don't get me wrong. What I did like about these smaller presentations was that it allowed me to mingle with friends I haven't seen in a while. Getting a chance to slow down, sip a cocktail or two and socialize is such a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle at the tents. More importantly, it also gives everybody the opportunity to scrutinize the details and really get up close and personal.