Robert Geller: Modern Romantic

Can I tell you about…Robert Geller. I met Robert last year through a common friend over lunch and I was instantly smitten. He’s laid back, thoughtful and genuine. He’s also a rising star in the menswear industry. Hailing from Hamburg, Germany, he moved to the USA to study at the prestigious Rhode Island School of Design. Upon graduating, he worked at Marc Jacobs, then became a partner and co-designer for the label Cloak and eventually launched his eponymous menswear label in 2007. He was recently named the winner of GQ magazine “Best New Menswear Designer in America” competition and was nominated for the CFDA Perry Ellis Menswear Designer of the year. Levis also collaborated with him on a capsule collection that just launched this September in Bloomingdales. Over al fresco lunch near his downtown Tribeca studio; we caught up and talked about everything under the sun…style related of course.

Rafe: The first time I saw your collection I was completely blown away. They were clothes I hadn’t seen before. Your designs are original, thoughtful, and provocative with unique details that a modern dandy can appreciate. What made you launch your own label?
Robert: Thank you! I started my own label because I felt that the clothes that I wanted to make had a client. I like to have a mix of toughness and sophistication that I don't think exists in the market. I think that this is essential when you launch a label. There is so much competition, it is easy to get lost in the crowd.

Rafe: What are 5 items you can’t live without and why?
Robert: My I Phone because it is my organizer and reminds me of my schedule. My old bicycle because it gets me around New York City and makes me feel like I live in a small town. A Margiela trench that I bought in Paris in 2000. It is just the right weight to take me from spring into summer. My wedding ring because it reminds me everyday how lucky I am to have found the partner of my dreams. My sketchbook that I have with me at all times, because it allows me to record my ideas whenever they may come.

Rafe: I think men are starting to dress up again and there’s a resurgence of haberdashery (neckties, bowties, hats) and tailoring in the market, even if it’s worn with high tops. What’s your take on this?
Robert: I think, especially in America, there has been this tradition of casual dressing that men are finally sick of. There is a real interest in men's clothing and some of the greatest accessories are ties and scarves and hats. Mixing this with a comfortable stylish look is not easy, but when it is done right, it can look really good.

Rafe: What does American style mean to you and how does your brand reflect it?
Robert: I think that American style embodies this sort of casual attitude that we are talking about. When done right it is a very sophisticated, comfortable style, but when it is bad, it can look sloppy. I like the aspect of comfort in clothing, while still looking fresh and pulled together.

Rafe: What do you think of the current trend of ‘pleated pants’ and slouchy proportions? Do you think they have any mileage or do you see it moving on and to what?
Robert: I think this slouchy oversized look is kind of cool and is a reaction to the super shrunken silhouette that has been popular in the past years. I think the future will be a mix. I don't think everyone will be wearing MC Hammer pants in the next five years, but playing with proportions is going to be very important.

Rafe: Music is often a key ingredient when designing a collection, what were you listening to when you designed your Fall Winter 09 collection, how did that influence you and by contrast, are you listening to something new now?
Robert: I always get more moody for the fall collection, I think that it is natural. I always listen to a lot of the Cure and Mazzy Star and I was listening to a bit of Gustav Mahler. Very poetic beautiful music. When Spring comes around I want energy. I fell in love with the Kooks last spring and still really like their Inside in/Inside out album. I also recommend the New Order playlist on Pandora.com. Lots of New Order, the Cure, the Smiths and Depeche Mode.
Rafe: As an accessory designer, I have to ask, what kind of bag do you carry every day?
Robert: When I carry one, which is not every day, I take the tote bag I made for my last spring show. We attached a hand-sewn leather flower to it. It is simple but it looks good.

Rafe: Every season, designers are pressured to come up with something new. How do you manage to stay true to your vision, evolve and still manage to surprise your audience?
Robert: It comes from my moods. I really just follow my instinct. There is no formula. I design what excites me and I think that my customer is similar to me and will also get excited by it.
Rafe: Being New Yorker, I always get asked for my inside scoop and favorite haunts. So I'm going to ask yours.
Weekend Brunch? Gigino at Wagner Park. Sit outside with the most beautiful view of the Statue of Liberty and Ellis island. It feels like you’re on a vacation.
Work Lunch? Le Pain Quotidien on West Broadway and Warren. This one is special and like my meeting room. The food is great and the atmosphere bright and very relaxed.
Dinner? Still Bacaro. This place opened a little more than a year ago and is hidden on Division street in the heart of Chinatown. I still have trouble finding it and I have been there over 40 times. Great atmosphere and great people on a weeknight.
Bar? I love the bar at Friedmanns, it is very beautiful and the atmosphere is great.
Weekend get-away? See Above...I don't get out much : -)
Art Gallery? Klaus von Nichtssagend. Super unpretentious whole in wall gallery in Brooklyn, but great taste and great art.
Museum? The Museum of Natural History. It is really magnificent.
Store? Odin. It has managed to really put together a great roster of designers. Every man that comes to New York should take a look.
Rafe: What are you absolute style faux pas? Please name 3 and why
Robert: I don't really have any. Things that look ridiculous on most people look great on some, it all depends on who can pull it off and who can't.

Rafe: Who is or who are your style icons?
Robert: The coolest guy in my opinion that has ever lived is Jean-Paul Belmondo.

Rafe: Since the title of my column is “Can I tell you”, what can you tell me that I should invest in this season?
Robert: I would say a nice pair of running shoes. If you are skinny, then everything looks good on... and off.

Robert’s collection is being sold at over 50 of the world’s most influential boutiques, including Isetan in Japan, Lane Crawford in Hong, Odin in New York and Fred Segal in Los Angeles.
To read more about Robert, check out his website: www.robertgeller-ny.com