Can I tell you...about my gastronomoic experience in Budapest. Every new destination I go to, I make it a point to eat local cuisine and go to recommended restaurants by either the concierge or from travel articles that I've saved over time. I have numerous folders of these magazine tears as you can imagine. I believe that tasting local delicacies is crucial if you want to get the full experience. I try to hit sidewalk cafes as much as possible.
First stop was a prefixe dinner at Gundel, the swankiest and fanciest restaurant in the city. A culinary institution since 1894, the building that houses the restaurant was the former mansion of the Gundel family. There are several more intimate rooms, a grand ballroom and a wine cellar for more casual dining. The main dining room is adorned with 19th Century paintings and a large floral centerpiece.
Unfortunately, we felt like we were in a really cheezy cruise ship. It was little hot and stuffy in there and the indoor smoking didn't help, even if we were in the 'non-smoking' section. These restaurants seem to believe that smoke will just magically stop right at the edge of the non-smoking section. This was a tourist only restaurant, at least it seemed that way that night.
The waiters were charming enough but violinist going from table to table serenading diners with Bach and Beethoven gave me a grunt when he didn't receive the tip he was expecting. That was uncomfortable. I don't calculate and convert currency on the spot! A restaurant of this level and reputation shouldn't have musicians expecting tips to begin with. Nonetheless, the dinner was mediocre to say the least and for the price, it was disappointing. Goose liver foie gras and paprika on almost everything.
The next day we had lunch at another recommended tourist trap. Gerbeaud cafe'. Unfortunately, the service was a little gruff to put in bluntly. Our waitress couldn't be bothered to give us recommendations other than that 'will you hurry up and decide' kind of look. We ended up having club sandwiches and the biggest and sweetest frapuccino I've ever had. Yummmm....NOT!
Fortunately I reserved dinner at Callas, right beside the Opera House ( Maria Callas=Opera, get it?) on Andrassy boulevard.
A former booking office brilliantly redesigned by British designer David Collins. The ambience is turn of the century with an art deco twist and the location was perfect for people watching. That restaurant made up for the rest of the other food fiascos we had so far encountered. Our waitress was friendly and chatty. Offering her recommendations on what was good and not.
We came back for lunch the next day. It was the perfect place to rest our weary feet and unwind. I'm sure there are really good restaurants that locals go to but what do you do when you only have a few days? Nonetheless, the trip was memorable and I would definitely go back at some point in the future. Then again, I've been itching to see Prague.
