Past, Present, Future

Can I tell you about... present day Kyoto. Walking through the streets and observing the throngs of people going about their daily lives is something I love to do wherever I am. You catch glimpses of vignettes and form little stories in your mind. Who are they, where are they going to and what their life is like. Japan, for all its modern technology and avant-guard fashion is also a country clinging on to their past.

A pachinko parlor is situated right beside a kimono store, an electronics store right beside a traditional pastry shop. The young hipsters hanging out by the banks of Sanjo bridge drinking Kirin beer seems such a far cry to the grandmothers I saw taking the subway on their way to tea.

I saw this man crossing the street in traditional yukata, wearing a Borsalino, holding a straw market basket and walking in getas(wooden clog shoes). I took a quick photo and I'm glad I did. He looked so debonair walking in those shoes so effortlessly. I saw countless of examples of how as a culture, they've managed to mix their past, present and future... seamlessly and successfully.

Growing up in the Philippines, a country so heavily influenced by the Spanish, the Chinese and the Americans it's hard to say exactly what is originally Filipino but when I wear the Barong Tagalog on special occassions, it fills me with an immense sense of pride for my culture and how as a people we've managed to combine past, present and future just as successfully as the Japanese.

Goin to Gion

Can I tell you...about the Gion District in Kyoto. After my trip to Hong Kong I had to go to Tokyo for a few days. Instead of staying in the city, I decided to take the weekend off and go to Kyoto with my girlfriend Mana Igarashi, an editor for Spur fashion magazine.

First stop was an area called Gion, one of the oldest districts in Kyoto. It's famous because of the cluster of ochayas (tea houses) dating back from the Shogun era and it's the best place to spot maikos and geishas strutting about. Some of these tea houses are members only and in most cases cater to a strictly Japanese clientele.
I was lucky enough to get a few snapshots of these 'artists' in full regalia. They obliged me because I asked so politely but as soon as I took the shot, the were gone in an instant. You can just imagine the amount of attention they receive as they try to go from tea house to tea house. Everybody wants to take a photo and I can only assume it's an absolute nightmare for them.
The district is a bit of an outdoor mall with stores selling anything associated with geishas and their tea houses. Vintage kimono swatches as well as actual vintage kimonos, porcelain tea cups, sock and shoe stores. One particular fabric store is famous because of the amount of inventory it carries. When I was there, a mother and daughter came in dressed in traditional kimono. The mother was helping her daughter choose a new kimono for a special ceremony. It was like being caught in a time warp watching the two of them discuss and consider each print and design as the different kimonos were being laid out for their perusal. I went crazy of course and bought my share of swatches for my personal collection. Many of you may already know, I'm a bit of a printaholic.
On the weekends apparently, it's becoming quite fashionable to don a kimono with your girlfriends and go to brunch and walk around town just like the old days. I saw a boy and a girl both wearing traditional attire holding hands like they stepped out of an ancient hiroshige. The most amazing thing was that other people appeared to be completely oblivious to them. I seemed to be the only one looking at them, the obvious tourist that I was.
Even Minnie Mouse got into the act and got a geisha make over.