Can I tell you...about my weekend in Shanghai. Last Nov.3 I flew to Shanghai for the weekend from Hong Kong. I hadn't been in a few years and wanted to see what had changed since my last trip. I went with my friend Douglas Ting, who fortunately for me speaks fluent Mandarin. What a difference that made! Last time I went 5 years ago, I had the hotel write me little notes for all the addresses I wanted to go to. I couldn't be as spontaneous. This time I could go wherever and whenever.
We stayed at the Westin, a stones' throw away from the Bund where most of the action still is. Some of the restaurants that were popular then are institutions at this point.
M on the Bund is still one of the best spots for lunch because of the location and the food. It overlooks the Pudong side and the view is spectacular on a clear-ish day. Gorged on their dessert special called the Pavlova(meringue with fruits,lots of it).
This was a packed weekend so I'll have to break it up in several posts.
First of, the quest for the famous dumpling called Xiao Long Bao proved to be not an easy one. Xiao Long Bao literally means small basket dumplings. These buns are traditionally (and still) steamed in bamboo baskets, hence the name. It originated many years ago, in a small town off Shanghai call Nanxiang. Thus, the association with many shops by the name of Nanxiang.
In the end we ended up in a restaurant actually called Nanxiang in the heart of crowded tourist landmark Yu Gardens, where people wait for hours in line just to have the pleasure of scooping up this typical Shanghainese delicacy.
Some people waited in line at their 'to go' counter and literally just park themselves and chow. We opted for table service and I don't know what Douglas said to the maitre'd but we were promptly whisked away from the line and got a table like VIPs. I would have waited because it was well worth it.
This dumpling is not easy to make or eat. At first glance they look like every other dumpling, but when you bite into them, you know that there's something special going on inside. Xiao long baos are "juicy dumplings," which are filled with not only a regular meat and vegetable stuffing, but with broth.
So whats the best way to consume the dumpling?
While there are no hard rules on how to consume the dumplings, there are quite a few ways. Most Shanghaiese would recommend these 2 techniques.
Technique 1
Hold the dumpling with your spoon, bite off a small section of the dumpling skin, sip out the soup, dip the rest of it into vinegar and eat the rest. I saw all the locals do this so effortlessly.
Technique 2
Put the entire dumpling in your mouth, give it a gentle bite. Experience the dumpling explode as you drink up the broth.
Fabulicious!
